Doxa updates their diver line with the SUB 200 II
Doxa has updated one of its most recognizable dive watches, and, as usual, the change is measured rather than loud. The new SUB 200 II builds on the existing SUB 200, a model that has long served as the entry point into the brand’s lineup, and introduces a fumé dial across the collection for the first time.
The fumé treatment is the headline here. Doxa has always leaned on clarity and function, and this kind of gradient dial could easily have gone too far. It does not. The dial darkens toward the edges, adding depth without interfering with legibility. There is also a subtle texture at play, which catches light in a way that gives the watch more presence on the wrist. It feels like a modern update, but not a break from what made the SUB line work in the first place.
The range includes five dial colors, black, gray, blue, green, and red, all treated with this gradient effect. For those who want something more aggressive, there is also a black DLC version paired with a deep red “Redcoral” dial. That version shifts the tone of the watch. It is less tool-forward and more graphic, but it still keeps the core layout intact.
On the wrist, the watch should wear better than the numbers suggest. The case is 44 mm, but Doxa has kept the lug-to-lug short, and the thickness has been reduced to 12.8 mm. That one millimeter drop matters. It pulls the watch closer to the wrist and makes it feel less like a slab of steel. This is still a dive watch, but one that is easier to live with day to day.
The bracelet deserves mention. The Milanese mesh is not new to Doxa, but it remains one of the better executions in this price range. It is flexible, distributes weight well, and avoids the pinch points you get with cheaper versions. There is also a rubber strap option with a retro look, which feels more in line with the watch’s original purpose.
Technically, nothing here will surprise anyone familiar with the segment. The watch runs on a Sellita SW200 automatic movement with a 38-hour power reserve. Water resistance is 200 meters. The bezel uses an aluminum insert, which is a practical choice even if it lacks the perceived durability of ceramic. This is still a tool watch at heart, and Doxa has not tried to turn it into something else.
What stands out is restraint. The SUB 200 II adds texture, slightly improves wearability, and expands the visual range without changing the core formula. At around $1,750, it stays within reach, which has always been part of the appeal. This is not a reinvention. It is a careful adjustment to a design that did not need much fixing in the first place.
Specs
Case 316L stainless steel or 316L stainless steel with black DLC treatment
Diameter: 44 mm Thickness: 12.80 mm
Crystal: “Glass box” sapphire
Unidirectional rotating bezel with aluminum insert
Lug width: 20 mm
Screw-down crown
Stainless steel screw-down caseback
Water resistance: 20 ATM / 200 meters / 656 feet
Dial
Fumé finish
5 colorways (black, gray, blue, green, and red)
Painted indices enhanced with Super-LumiNova®
Hands enhanced with Super-LumiNova®
Outer minute track painted with Super-LumiNova®
Bezel
Stainless steel with aluminum insert or 316L stainless steel with black DLC treatment
Unidirectional rotation
Painted indices enhanced with Super-LumiNova®
Movement
Swiss Sellita SW200 automatic mechanical movement
Power reserve: approx. 38 hours
Bracelet & Strap
Stainless steel Milanese mesh bracelet with adjustable security clasp
Tone-on-tone retro diving rubber strap with pin buckle