The world of high-end watchmaking is no stranger to bold, avant-garde statements. But every so often, a piece arrives that not only defines the future but takes the industry by surprise. Enter the UR-230 Polaris, a remarkable new addition to Urwerk’s 230 series, launched in December 2024. This timepiece is a true departure from the brand’s signature aesthetics, blending innovation, technical mastery, and an all-new material palette. If the UR-230 Eagle was the first chapter, the Polaris is a whole new narrative—a brilliant, almost otherworldly evolution.
Urwerk has long been known for its bold use of dark, muted tones in watch design, typically favoring blacks, grays, and deep textures that suggest strength and mystery. With the UR-230 Polaris, the brand takes a daring leap into the realm of white. But this is not the kind of white you might expect. The case of the Polaris is crafted from a proprietary fiberglass-enhanced ceramic—a material that combines high-tech polymers with woven ceramic layers and fiberglass, producing an end result that is both incredibly strong and visually striking.
Felix Baumgartner, Urwerk’s co-founder and master watchmaker, explains the challenge of working with ceramics. Traditional ceramics, while incredibly hard, are also prone to shattering under impact—a serious vulnerability in a mechanical timepiece. So, Urwerk set about developing their own solution: a more resilient ceramic composite that integrates fiberglass to resist breakage while maintaining the technical advantages of ceramics.
This material innovation isn’t just about strength—it’s also about light. The Polaris case plays with light in ways rarely seen in watchmaking. As the case is meticulously machined, the stacked layers of ceramic and fiberglass shimmer and shift, creating a dynamic, ever-changing play of light and shade. The surface can move from a soft matte to a glowing brilliance depending on the angle, making the watch feel alive—almost as if it’s in motion even when still.
The white is not just an aesthetic choice but a deliberate nod to the space-age inspiration behind the design. Martin Frei, co-founder and art director of Urwerk, notes that the design evokes the visual elements of 2001: A Space Odysseyand the Apollo 11 mission. The striking contrast between the white case and the black movement inside creates a futuristic, space-inspired vibe, reminiscent of heat shields and the iconic spaceships from sci-fi cinema.
A Revolution in Time Display: The Signature URWERK Satellite Complication
No Urwerk watch would be complete without a signature complication, and the UR-230 Polaris does not disappoint. The watch features the wandering hours complication, a hallmark of the brand’s creative genius. The time is displayed on rotating blocks, each showing one of the hours, which move along a 120-degree arc. These blocks are supported by a 3D skeletonized retrograde minute hand that ticks off the minutes on its journey.
In this version, the minute hand and hour blocks are a perfect match for the overall aesthetic: both are crafted in white, mirroring the bright, pure ceramic case. As the hand completes its 60-minute arc, it resets to zero, powering the next block of hours forward—an endless, fluid cycle of time that feels both dynamic and futuristic.
Shock Absorbers and Air Flow: Two Innovations for Durability and Precision
Urwerk’s engineering expertise is on full display in the Polaris, particularly in the two key technical innovations that make this timepiece both incredibly robust and precise.
First, there’s the new shock absorption system. Traditional mechanical watches rely on spring-loaded shock absorbers, but the Polaris introduces an entirely new approach, featuring a set of turbines designed to dampen external shocks. These turbines protect the delicate UR-7.30 movement housed inside, ensuring that the watch remains operational even under extreme conditions.
Second, the Polaris is equipped with a first-of-its-kind air brake system. This system moderates the power feeding into the winding mechanism, adjusting according to the wearer’s activity. A rotating knob on the back allows the wearer to adjust the winding strength, and there’s even the option to disengage the automatic winding function entirely, switching to manual winding mode. These two functions are both controlled via intuitive, symmetrical indicators at 11 and 1 o’clock.
Refined Form Meets Exceptional Function
The UR-230 Polaris doesn’t just push the boundaries of materials and design—it also showcases unparalleled craftsmanship in every detail. The UR-7.30 movement, which powers the watch, is encased in a hermetically sealed container to protect it from external influences, reinforcing the timepiece’s durability. The titanium caseback, treated with DLC (diamond-like carbon), adds another layer of protection and visual intrigue, while the Vulcanized rubber strap ensures both comfort and reliability.
The case itself retains the distinctive trapezoidal shape that has become a hallmark of the UR-230 series, with its angular, elongated profile creating an impressive visual presence on the wrist. The dimensions—44.81 mm wide, 53.55 mm long, and 18.38 mm thick—are substantial, making this a bold watch designed for those who seek something truly distinctive in both form and function.
Given the innovative nature of the UR-230 Polaris, it’s no surprise that only 35 pieces will ever be made, adding an air of exclusivity to this already exceptional timepiece. Priced at CHF 150,000 (excluding tax), this watch is a statement of craftsmanship, ingenuity, and artistic design—perfect for collectors and watch enthusiasts who appreciate the rare and remarkable.
Specs:
- Movement: UR-7.30, developed by Urwerk
- Winding: Automatic with manual winding option
- Power Reserve: 48 hours
- Case Material: Proprietary white ceramic with fiberglass enhancement
- Case Dimensions: 44.81 mm x 53.55 mm x 18.38 mm
- Water Resistance: 30 meters (3 ATM)
- Price: CHF 150,000 (excluding tax)
- Limited Edition: 35 pieces
