Heroic scale and minimalist design

The Dievas Vintage 2533; inspired by a Panerai prototype from the 1930s, the Dievas Vintage 2533 is a magnificent lump of contradictions. Big, but comfortable, sized like a status watch, Spartan in design and function while still being handsome, simple, but sublime. And the dial is perfect for eyes that aren’t what they used to be. The hands and dial are matte black with luminescent markings. Strictly speaking, the dial isn’t marked, but perforated. The index marks on the dial a precision cut so the luminescent layer shows through. The luminescence is the usual green with a faint amber patina that creates the appearance of a gracefully aged watch. The edges of the holes cast shadows on the markings, giving the watch a more subtle appearance and depth than a more common dials have. The lugs are solid but are easily removed to change straps. The strap is broad and thick leather with contrasting stitching, and an oversized buckle, and a wide range of straps are available from Dievas.

The movement is a Unitas 6497; a workhorse manual winding movement from ETA typically used in pocket watches. It’s got an overwhelming 47mm dial, 20mm thick, and has 26mm lugs. The crystal is 7mm (a third of the total thickness!) acrylic and has borne up under my clumsiness very well.

Normally, I’m not a fan of watches over 40mm. The Dievas Vintage watches are an exception. The simplicity of the design, with the most basic possible markings and without a sweep hand, really speaks to me. And the historical inspiration works for me also. I might prefer this one in a slightly smaller version, maybe 41-43mm, but even with its heroic proportions, this is a great watch.

Available from Gnomon Watches, also owned by Anders Tan, the man behind Dievas for $560.

Van