RGM is well known in the watch collector world as being the only current US-based watch manufacturer who designs and constructs their own movements. Their first new release of 2018 is the RGM 350-TZBD, or Timezone Big Date. This offering falls into RGM’s “affordable” category by starting with a base ETA movement and then topping it with a custom module.
The 350-TZBD is the first multiple time zone watch ever offered by RGM. It utilizes a modified ETA 2892-A2 and has a case size of 38.7mm. Those who’ve grown tired of the bigger-is-better philosophy in the watch world over the last few years should rejoice. While 12mm isn’t ultra thin, it should sit nicely on the wrist.
The black dial has lume-painted round pips on the outer minute track and painted numbers inboard at each of the hour indices. The font is typical of RGM, recalling an earlier time in watchmaking. Front and center are the dual big date windows between dial center and the 12 o’clock index. The sub-dial at 6 o’clock denotes the second timezone, with a 3, 6, 9, 12 format and hands that match the sword-shaped hands of the main dial. Just below the sub-dial are the words “RGM – TIMEZONE” in red which curve to match the minute track below. All four hour/minute hands are lumed, as are the 3, 6, 9, and 12 indices and 5-minute markers on the sub-dial.
The case is pretty standard RGM fare (not that there’s anything wrong with that). A polished bezel sits atop a mid-case and lugs with a brushed finish. A large onion crown should make winding and setting painless. The lugs stare at each other across a 20mm gap. A sapphire case back with polished surround, held in place by seven screws provides a view of the nicely decorated ETA movement. The rotor is treated to Cote de Geneve stripes and an RGM logo in gold, while the bridges show off a nice perlage finish.
The 350-TZBD ships on a brown leather strap, and is available at $3,700 from RGM Watch Co. rgmwatches.com
Technical Specifications from RGM Watches
- Material: 316L Stainless Steel
- Size: 38.7m x 12mm
- Crystal: Sapphire
- Water Resistance: 5 atm
- Inter-lug Width: 20mm
- MOVEMENT: ETA 2892-A2, Modified With Big Date and Second Timezone Module
- Functions: Hour, Minute, Hacking, Hand Winding, Big Date, Second Timezone Sub-Dial
- Automatic, 21 Jewels
- 28,000 BPH
- Material: Leather
- Clasp: Stainless Pin Buckle