I didn’t wear this piece much, but not because I didn’t like it. Quite the contrary; it has terrific build quality and the blue dial perfectly compliments the bronze metal bits. But a bronze watch is a living thing that grows with its owner. I didn’t want to make this loaner watch mine any more than I had to so I could bring you the straight story.
Bronze is synonymous with the sea and the copper/tin alloy gives bronze cases a quick-forming custom patina. The glittering gold turns an organic greenish-brown as the metal oxidizes, giving each watch its own unique finish. Christopher Ward chose a Japanese-made multi-alloy bronze, which they claim will age to a “discreet and distinguished copper brown with delicate textured hues.” Time will tell, but this watch will start to become unique the moment you first handle it. Or, you can order your Trident pre-patinaed, but why rob yourself of the pleasure of seeing the case evolve on your wrist? Ain’t nobody got time for patina, I guess. Or, more likely, they let a few sit out and “decided” to age them.
The workhorse Sellita SW200 powers most everything in the Trident range, including this, with the signature Trident counterbalance and water droplet hour hand attached to the Swiss movement’s cannon pinion.
The classic 43 mm Trident case is good for 600m of immersion and 120-click unidirectional bezel keeps an eye on your time in the upside down. The handset and markers are fully and amply lumed, as is the bezel pip at 12:00. Like some of the stainless Tridents, you have the option of a skinnier 38 mm case. I had the 43 mm to test, and it is pictured here. I’m usually a fan of smaller watches, but a 43 mm dive watch is a classic size that doesn’t feel too big for my 7″ wrist.
For the most part, this is your average Trident. But the change in metal—every metal bit is bronze except the hypoallergenic stainless case back—makes a huge difference in the character of this watch. It gives it a warmth and wealth unrivaled by any of its stainless stalemates. The golden metal accentuates the swooping sides of the Trident case and the brass running gear sparkles against the deep blue backdrop.
The standout feature is the all-bronze Yacht-Master style bezel, the polished and raised register sitting on a rough field. The all-bronze bezel ages with the case, creating a more cohesive look than would a ceramic or stainless bezel insert. I also think it gives it a more mature, less sporty appearance.
In keeping with that more refined look, I preferred to wear my tester on a leather strap. It is pictured here with a Clockwork Synergy Brown Vintage Leather from their Dapper collection, but Christopher Ward also offers a similar brown leather option, along with webbing and rubber straps in blue. The rubber strap mine came with was fine quality, with great bronze hardware, but I thought the sportiness of the rubber strap seemed out of place. Waterproof as it may be, you’ll probably not be taking this watch in the pool or on your next dive—but if you do you’ll have lots of patina to show for it.
There is no shortage of bronze watches, especially dive watches, but the Trident brings something a bit different to the party. The Trident’s playful handset looks especially at home in this novel metal, the blue dial pops, and the raised bronze bezel will keep the patina cohesive. Plus, there are two sizes to choose from to fit most every wrist out there.
There is a slight premium charged for the special metal—you’ll be paying Trident-on-bracelet prices for a strapped watch—but the bronze is still slightly cheaper than the other exotic metal Trident, the C60 Trident Titanium Pro 600. The two peculiar metals make a perfect pair: Christopher Ward calls the titanium a “moody black and grey timepiece,” and I found the bronze to be the perfect counterbalance to that, a cheery horological novelty. christopherward.com
Christopher Ward C60 Trident Bronze Pro 600
- Price: $910USD (Leather, rubber, or nylon)
- Who are they for? You long for the era of the diving helmet.
- Would I wear it? Everywhere but under the water, yes.
- What I’d change? It’s near perfect. The date wheel could be color-matched, but the white-on-black wheel works next to the dark blue dial.
- Standout features? Bronze and blue is a killer combo, especially with that matching bezel.
- Diameter: 43mm/38mm
- Height: 13.3mm/12.7mm
- Lug to lug: 51.5mm/45.5mm
- Strap: 22mm/20mm
- Weight: 107g/70g
- Case: Bronze C5191 (CuSn6) case with stainless steel case back
- Water Resistance: 60 ATM (600 metres)
- Lume: SuperLuminova SLN Light Old Radium A-Grade GL
- Calibre: Sellita SW200
- Vibrations: 28,800 per hour (4 Hz)
- Timing tolerance: +20/-20 seconds per day